Cheshire-brewed Real Ale in a Bottle
Tasting Notes

...in which your Editor shares the delights of his cellar...

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Beartown

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Woodlands

Beartown

Beartown Black Bear (5.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Congleton by Beartown. Bottle from Holly Tree Farm, but available in selected outlets in Cheshire.
Pours easily with only a little head formation. the yeast stuck to the bottom of the bottle. The beer is dark brown in the glass and the aroma is subtle. The first taste gives a distinct prickle on the tongue from the natural secondary fermentation in the bottle, and this "mouthfeel" slows down the drinker a little. The taste has a distinct and pleasant smoky edge, and while the beer is full bodied it is by no means heavy or cloying. This is a bottled version of the draught beer found in Beartown's own pubs, and is a fine example of a premium strength brown ale.

Beartown Kodiak Gold (bottle awaiting tasting)

Betwixt

"Brewed on the Wirral peninsula betwixt the Mersey and the Dee."

"BeLotment (bottle awaiting tasting) A rather old example, brewed in 2007! Dry-hopped in the cask using allotment-grown Wirral hops.

BeWilder (4.3% alcohol by volume) A limited edition brew, from 2007! Dry-hopped in the cask using wild Wirral hops.
This was a bottle that had been hiding at the back of my cupboard for many months, so its opening was something of an experiment. I was pleasantly surprised. A soft hiss and an easy pour with very little froth. The yeast was glued conveniently to the bottom of the bottle and the beer poured a clear golden colour. The flavour was clean and just a little astringent, but not at all unpleasant. After a few sips, it grew on me and I very much enjoyed this hoppy, slightly fruity beer. The label explains that the name comes from the inclusion of some wild hops in a recipe which starts out as the brewer's regular beer, Sunlight. This experimental brew may be hard to come by in future, following the excessive zeal of a telephone engineer around the telegraph pole where the donor plant was growing!

Dark Matter (4.0% abv) Based on a Czech black lager recipe but brewed with ale yeast and UK-grown American hops. Deep, dark and Chocolatey.

Ice Breaker a strong seasonal mulled-wine-spice & port-fortified which they recommend serving either cool or warmed as a mulled ale, with a drop of honey.

Bollington Brewery Co

Bollington Best (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Within days of learning that Bollington Brewing Co were producing their ales in bottle conditioned form, I found myself buying a pack of bottles at the Vale.
After the obligatory three days to let the yeast settle after getting them home, it was time to try it. The opening formalities were trouble free with no foaming and the yeast could be seen swirling at the end of the pour, making it a simple matter to retain the last mouthful in the bottle, leaving a clear golden pint.
The aroma was light and hoppy. The taste was powerful, with dominant hop and a back taste of malt. It was very easy to drink and I was surprised at how quickly I went back to it; no prickly carbonation to slow you down. This would be a great addition to any cellar and I think that it would be an excellent adjunct to a meal. Why don't more restaurants have the imagination to serve good beer and move away from their wine mono-culture?

Bollington Dinner Ale (4.3% alcohol by volume)
Easy opening and pouring and although the yeast sediment that makes this a real beer was fairly mobile, it was easy to retain most of it at the shoulder of the bottle. I say most, and the beer, showing as a deep copper brown the glass, was not entirely clear. I detected a malty aroma. The taste was full-bodied and well-balanced with malt to the fore with hop in the aftertaste. This beer drinks above its strength; a good value in every mouthful. Very enjoyable.

Bollington Oat Mill Stout(5.0% alcohol by volume)
A drinker-friendly opening and pouring, with no head at all. The beer is almost black in the glass and the aroma is subtle. The taste is what this is all about. Deep, rich and full-bodied it was pleasurable in the extreme. With almost a hint of liquorice or fruit cake in the palate, this is a complex beer, but the malt that creates all this is balanced neatly by enough hop in the aftertaste.
Only a week before tasting this bottle I had appreciated the quality of this beer on draught in the Vale, and the bottle was no less enjoyable. Strongly recommended.

Dunham Massey

Big Tree Bitter (3.9% alcohol by volume)
Should that be big taste bitter? Remarkably full-bodied and flavoursome for its strength, it put me in mind of Fullers 1845. A classic medium tan in the glass it has a touch of malt in the balance with a hint of fruit. Opening was uneventful, with the yeast sediment sticking obligingly to the bottom of the bottle. Mouthfeel was just right without excessive tongue-prickling from the carbonation. The label shows the local Arboricultural landmark This was one of the earlier recipes from this microbrewery; they clearly hit the ground running. This beer can hold its own with anything out there.

 

Cheshire IPA (4.7% alcohol by volume)
Now this is what I call an IPA! Massively flavoured, it takes no prisoners with its full body and powerful hop character. Opening and pouring took a little care to keep the yeast in the bottle and get all the beer into an oversized pint glass, with a tall white foam head topping a golden clear glassful. The aroma is subtle, clean, fresh and a little hoppy. There is apparently some wheat in the mix although I did not detect it. Every mouthful was an experience, with just a little carbonation character from a vigorous fermentation in the bottle, but this is nothing compared with the dominant hop experience visited upon the back of the tongue. Remarkable.

 



Chocolate Cherry
Chocolate Cherry Mild (3.8% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
Opens and pours with no problem and left a little grainy yeast in the bottle. It looks almost black in the glass. The aroma is subtle with a hint of fruit. How to describe the subtleties of the taste? Rich, dark, almost stout-like with a pleasing sharpness to balance the malt. And the cherries? Not even remotely overpowering; definitely a backing singer rather than a diva. Given the complexities of this beer it is no surprise that it is a serial award winner at CAMRA beer festivals. Every larder should have some.

Dunham Massey Dunham Dark (3.8% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
At last, a real mild in a bottle, and from a local microbrewer! The long-awaited moment came and I was not disappointed. It poured easily with no undue foaming and looked jet-black in the glass. The first taste elicited a "Wow!" Rich, smoky and with a hint of liquorice, this is a masterpiece of the craft brewer's art. The aroma is gentle and clean while the mouthfeel is just lively enough, with no unpleasant tingling. This beer is bottled straight from the conditioning tank, with no additional priming and it works.
Strongly reminiscent of the old Chester's "fighting" Mild; this is a very welcome addition to the local bottled beer scene.


Dunham Massey Deer Beer (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
Opened and poured easily into a pint glass very easily with no excess foaming. Tawny dark in colour with a pleasant distinct hop aroma. This was a good example of a traditional English ale; encouraging frequent return visits to the glass; it slipped down quickly and happily.

Light (bottle awaiting tasting)

Little Bollington Ale

Dunham Massey Milk Stout (4.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
Easily poured with no undue froth. A deep black beer with a roast aroma, massively flavoured with complex smoky or roast notes and a balancing sharpness. The label shows, as you would expect, a cow, but more helpfully, it reveals that lactose, barley, wheat and oats are in the mix. It reveals that this is a classic, full bodied sweet stout with a creamy roast malt character. I couldn't agree more. It is a pleasure to find a beer of this style.

 

Porter (bottle awaiting tasting)

Stamford Bitter (bottle awaiting tasting)

Stout
(4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
This was a really easy bottle, opening and pouring with no fuss at all and leaving a yeast deposit visible in the bottle. I found myself quickening the pour to create a bit more of a head, as I always feel that a black beer looks good with a collar of tan. Perhaps this is too much brainwashing by those ads for unspeakable overpriced pseudo-Irish keg stout?
Black it is, too, deep, deep black. The aroma is richly smoky. The first taste was almost overwhelming, dry and rich. It kept its fascination all the way down the glass, complex and satisfying. I suspect that the inclusion of wheat and oats in the mash adds to this sophistication; certainly, this was a most satisfactory purchase. I can't wait to find it on draught!

Treacle Treat (4.1% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Dunham Massey in Cheshire. Bought from the brewery shop on Oldfield Lane, but available in the National Trust shop nearby and at selected local outlets.
As we have come to expect, the opening was free from drama with the ale pouring into the glass with no excess foaming and leaving the yeast obligingly decorating the bottom of the bottle. The beer is a classic deep brown and I would describe the flavour in the same terms. The addition of treacle is relatively subtle and the overall effect is of a darkish, slightly malty best bitter.
This is a seasonal special brew, based of course on Halloween. The label portrays an evil-looking pumpkin head surrounded by flames. I especially like the name, cleverly combining the American term "Trick or Treat" with a reference to the treacle added to the mash.

Winter Warmer (bottle awaiting tasting)

Spitting Feathers

.....currently bottle Special Ale (4.2%) and Basketcase (4.8%) and a few of the seasonal beers as real ale in a bottle.
The new Brewery Tap in Chester sells bottles and presentation packs, and I picked up Old Wavertonian Stout and Special Ale for tasting shortly.

Old Wavertonian (4.4% alcohol by volume)
Bottle acquired from the Brewery Tap in Chester
My first sight of real ale in a bottle from this micro-brewer, this was a pleasant introduction. Easy to open and pour, with the yeast visible coating the base of the bottle after the pour.
Black as pitch in the glass with a lacing of pale brown head when poured carefully.
The aroma is distinctive, smoky, earthy and rich. The taste is a revelation, complex, powerful and fascinating, with just a touch of dry sharpness in the aftertaste to counter the malt. The label is very informative, telling us that this is a robust dark stout. (I couldn't agree more.) The palate is described as roast barley, chocolate and coffee with a very full body and a smooth lingering finish. It is proud too, to be free from colourings, flavourings and artificial additives. Real ale in a bottle generally is, of course, but I am pleased to see this stressed to the layman reading the label. The message continues that the ale is not filtered, pasteurised or carbonated and that the active yeast completes the fermentation in the bottle. This gives wonderful fresh flavours and pleasant natural effervescence. If only all beers were so "up-front" about their virtues!
An excellent beer

Special Ale (bottle awaiting tasting)

Station House

1st Lite (3.8% alcohol by volume)
Discovered at Holly Tree Farm Shop, but available at good off-licences and the brewery shop.
The label is adorned by a cockerel and helpfully tells the uninitiated that "this bottle conditioned unfiltered beer contains some yeast sediment". The beer includes some wheat as well as barley and is as light and golden in colour as you would expect. Opening involved a little frothing, but a little patience saw it all poured readily into a pint glass. The yeast sediment was mostly stuck to the bottom of the bottle. There is little aroma; what there is was clean and hoppy. Once the initial liveliness had subsided, this was a satisfying beer, clean tasting and refreshing. No doubt the three varieties of American hop have something to do with that.

Station House Aonach (4.9% alcohol by volume)
I wasn't sure how to characterise this beer on tasting, until I saw the label which helpfully explains that it is a typical Scottish-style 80/- beer, dark amber in colour, late hopped with New Zealand hops.
It certainly has a typically Scottish malty aspect but there is sufficient hop in the aftertaste to give this a good balance. At this gravity, it has a pleasing warmness, perfect for a cold windy night.
Like the other Station House beers sampled recently, this had a sticky yeast which meant an easy pour with no rogue sediment to worry about. The degree of carbonation was perfect, with no drama at opening time yet a pleasing tingle on the tongue.
The name of the beer is a little obscure. The Gaelic word means variously, a fair, meeting or moor and there are several Scottish peaks bearing the term. However, the label bears the likeness of a border terrier pup and the beer is named after the critter in question.

Station House Buzzin' (4.3% alcohol by volume)
The bee on the label gives the clue; this is a honey beer. Not sweet and sticky as the uninitiated might suspect, but well balanced and refreshing. The honey does just enough to match the bitterness of the hops. The bottle opened with a soft "pffft" and no fuss at all, and the yeast remained obligingly on the bottom of the bottle, so that the pale golden beer poured clean and bright. Despite a portion of wheat with the barley in this recipe, there was no cloudiness. The slightly fruity taste grew on me, and by the end of the glass, I was enjoying it very much.

Lammastide wheat beer (bottle awaiting tasting)

Three Score (bottle awaiting tasting)

Storm Brewing

Storm Brewing Ale Force (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
An easy bottle to pour, with well-behaved yeast. An attractive subtle aroma from the Fuggles hops complementing a classic amber coloured ale. The first impression of the taste is a strong one, with the powerful flavour from the Fuggles predominating on the front of the tongue. This continues all the way down the glass; a big mouthful of flavour. This is not a beer for cissies. I found the mouthfeel to be slightly carbonated, indicating a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottle. I read from the label that a blend of pale, chocolate and crystal malts is used, but in my view this is about the colour; the beer is all about the hops. Very distinctive.

Storm Brewing Bosley Cloud (4.1% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
Pours easily, with the yeast highly visible in the bottom of the bottle, so that a timely halt to the pouring ensures a clear pint. The beer is pale, clear and golden, with only a slight hop aroma. The taste is clean, crisp and dry, with more hop than malt on the tongue. The label is informative, detailing the combination of wheat, lager and pale malts with Fuggles and American Cluster hops used to create this light golden ale. A beer which grows on you, I found that it was somewhat undistinguished to begin with, then I wanted more. Subtle.

Storm Brewing Desert Storm (4.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.

Opened with no fuss at all and poured clear and quickly into the glass. A small amount of yeast was visible, stuck to the bottom of the bottle. The aroma is understated, but the flavour most certainly is not! A massive attack of hop fills the back of the mouth, with Fuggles and Goldings blended in the mix. The ale is a medium brown in the glass, a result of the blend of pale, crystal and chocolate malts in the brewing process.

Storm Brewing Downpour (4.3% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire.
This was the first time I had seen one of the bottles with the classy new labels, this one featuring raindrops splashing in the eponymous deluge; looks good. Getting it into the glass was easy, although a few bits of floaty yeast decided to join me. A few minutes' patience saw most of that settle at the bottom of the glass, whence it gave no more trouble. The beer was clear and golden yellow with a subtle aroma. The taste was clean with a hint of fruit, the Challenger and American Cluster hops giving the light taste you would expect. A fine example of a session beer.

Storm Brewing Hurricane Hubert (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The bottle opened with no foaming, and pouring was straightforward, although the last half inch of beer had to be left in the bottle, as the yeast could be seen drifting up to the neck. Hurricane Hubert was brewed and named to celebrate the fact that Hugh Thompson joined the firm on a full time basis. The beer is a full-bodied but easy drinking amber ale, rather reminiscent of Fuller's 1845, if lower in gravity. Helpfully, the label tells us that the hops are Goldings, while the malt is a blend of pale, chocolate and crystal. My overall impression was of a well-balanced beer of character, and the aftertaste kept tempting me back to the glass. Excellent.

Storm Brewing Looks Like Rain Dear (bottle awaiting tasting)

Storm Brewing Storm Damage (4.7% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The bottle opens with a soft pffft indicating life from the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Pouring into the glass is simple, producing the adman's dream; a pure white half inch collar of foam. Use of an oversize lined glass meant that this could be accommodated easily. The granular yeast can be seen readily so it can be left in the bottle, leaving a delightfully clear golden glassful. I could detect little in the way of aroma. The label tells us that the beer is brewed from a blend of pale and lager malts, flavoured with a combination of Fuggles and American Cluster hops. Unsurprisingly, this produces a clean tasting almost lager styled ale. At this strength, the beer is no lightweight, but it is pleasingly moreish.

Storm Brewing Windgather (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The first impression is given by the bottle label; a simple black design with a distinctive thundercloud logo. Helpfully, the label also tells us that the hops used are Fuggles and Challenger. For those who like to know a little more about the beer we are buying, this is a laudable step. The name is clever; not only does it fit in with the "storm" theme but it refers rather neatly to a well-known local spot, the Windgather Rocks.
This is a bottled version of an ale which has won the Champion Beer of Cheshire Award. The bottle opens with no frothing and pours very easily into a pint glass, with a small head and no overflow. The beer pours clear, with no hint of cloudiness and the well-behaved yeast can be seen sticking to the bottom of the bottle. The beer is a classic tawny golden-brown, and gives a delicate aroma of hop. The taste is clean initially with a hint of malt on the back of the tongue. There is a slight prickle in the mouth from the natural carbonation of the fermentation in the bottle, giving it just the right amount of life to invite you back to the glass quite quickly, without any of that unpleasant gassiness of processed beers. Overall, this is an excellent beer, and one which we can be proud is brewed by a couple of guys in Macclesfield. If only the big brewers had this kind of commitment.

WC Brewing

Golden Cascade

Woodlands

Bee's Knees (4.5% alcohol by volume)

Brewed in Wrenbury using Cheshire spring water.

Described on the informative label as "a tan beer with a hint of honey and nuts". I therefore approached this tasting with some trepidation, being a traditionalist. I generally like my beers to taste of malt (a bit) and hops (a lot). It opened readily with little in the way of foam and poured into an oversize pint glass without resort to a jug. The beer is indeed tan in colour, and the aroma is clean and beer-like, with only a hint of sweetness, rather than the muesli I had been fearing. The taste was a pleasant surprise, gently hoppy, clean and refreshing with no obvious honey notes or sweetness.
The level of carbonation was the usual, and the beer invited me back to the glass.
I think that the brewer has avoided the pitfall of overdoing the "novelty" additions, and while they may subtly affect the taste, this is basically a darn good beer. I wonder if, in a blind tasting, the honey would be detected by many?
I like the label too. I guess he is meant to be a bee, but he looks more like a Beano character in pyjamas.

Drummer Bitter 3.9 (alcohol by volume)
This bottle opened with no fuss, and poured quickly with almost no head at all. The yeast sediment can be seen easily and trapped in the bottle so that the beer pours clear. The colour is interesting; it looks almost red in the glass but held up to the light it alters to a light tan. The aroma is reminiscent of Goldings hops, and these come through in the flavour, too. The balance is predominantly hoppy. Mouthfeel was very good, with just enough life to interest but no excessive carbonation. At a gravity more modest than many bottled beers, this is a good and characterful drinking ale.


General's Tipple 5.5% (alcohol by volume)
Something of an Indian Pale Ale, tan in colour with a full-bodied character and pleasing but not assertive hop character. The label shows one of the stalwarts of the Raj. At this gravity, it packs a bit of a punch and there is a distinct mellowing effect on the consumer as the beer slips down. My bottle was a little lively on opening and this led to the inevitable slight clouding as the sediment was disturbed* but it tasted clean and fresh. A satisfying beer.

*A second sample proved much more co-operative, with a sticky yeast sitting at the bottom of the bottle.

India Pale Ale 4.1% (alcohol by volume)
Available from farmer's markets and selected outlets.
The water used by Woodland bubbles up from a spring on the farm and the bottles are filled straight from the fermenting vessel, with no fining, filtering or priming. Opening the bottle was a little exciting, with some beer lost*, but a little more attention on my part could have avoided this. Certainly the beer that was left was well worth it. The yeast sat in a well-behaved manner at the bottom of the bottle and the beer poured crystal clear. Described as a light version of the cask conditioned beer, this is lemon-gold in colour with a clean aroma and a massive hop flavour imparted by the Target, Challenger and Fuggle hops. The flavour keeps calling you back to the glass. The label shows a tusker with howdah and I would definitely prefer this refreshing and complex ale to the usual pasteurised Indian lagers to be found in curry houses.


*I am told that this was an isolated problem caused by one batch of bottles being left too long in the warm conditioning room. It should not normally be an issue.

Light Oak 4.0% (alcohol by volume)
A little lively on opening the bottle, but it all poured into a pint glass. The yeast remained co-operatively stuck to the bottom of the bottle, enabling a pale clear glassful. The aroma is subtle and the colour is pale, almost golden. The taste is fairly well balanced with perhaps a little more malt than hop in the character.


 

 

Midnight Stout (4.4% Alcohol by volume)
This was a long anticipated treat. I have had the beer on draught on several occasions and found it to be superb. With great anticipation, I found it a routine opening, no volcano, yeast left in the bottle. Pitch glorious black in the glass wiith a roast, smoky aroma. The taste? Wow! Incredibly rich with a strong smoked malt on the back of the tongue being balanced by a more astringent prickle on the front. This was a pleasure worthy of the wait and I kept going back to it every few seconds for confirmation that it was so good. This is one of the beers to give to a wine buff with the words; 'now tell me about "complex".'
A brilliant exposition of the art of the brewer. Woodlands, I salute you!


Mild (bottle awaiting tasting)
Redwood (bottle awaiting tasting)

 
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