Real Ale in a Bottle
Tasting Notes

...in which your Editor shares the delights of his cellar...

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Cheshire

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We would welcome beers for review, or notes of your own tasting. Indeed, we would like to hear about any outlets where real Ale in a Bottle may be found. There is a lot of good news out there, and we are keen to share it.

Banks & Taylor Black Dragon Mild (4.3% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Bedfordshire, sample bought from Holly Tree Farm Shop.
The bottle opens with no overflowing, and the beer pours easily and quickly into a pint glass without foam. It is completely black in the glass. The aroma is noticeable and hoppy. First taste is distinctly smoky with a slightly sharp aftertaste and a pleasing prickle on the tongue. This is a characterful beer, with a commendable balance of malt and hop. Very drinkable, this is one I would certainly keep on hand.
The label bears a drawing of the handsome eponymous dragon, a hand-written best-before date and the assurance that each batch is personally supervised by the brewer .

Banks & Taylor Edwin Taylor's Extra Stout (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Bedfordshire, sample bought from Holly Tree Farm Shop.
The bottle label bears a period photograph of its inspiration, who was born in 1852. It also has a hand-written best before date.
The bottle opens with no overflowing, and the beer pours easily without delay into a pint glass. It is completely black in the glass, with an attractive tan head. The aroma is noticeable and hoppy. First impression of the taste is pleasingly sharp with a smoky aftertaste. It is not particularly effervescent, which makes it very drinkable.
I had the great fortune to find this beer on draught when I was on a business trip to Bedford, and it was excellent. The bottled version is no disappointment. It would be a fine addition to your cellar and a welcome example of hospitality to any guest.

Beartown Black Bear (5.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Congleton by Beartown. Bottle from Holly Tree Farm, but available in selected outlets in Cheshire.
Pours easily with only a little head formation. the yeast stuck to the bottom of the bottle. The beer is dark brown n the glass and the aroma is subtle. The first taste gives a distinct prickle on the tongue from the natural secondary fermentation in the bottle, and this "mouthfeel" slows down the drinker a little. The taste has a distinct and pleasant smoky edge, and while the beer is full bodied it is by no means heavy or cloying. This is a bottled version of the draught beer found in Beartown's own pubs, and is a fine example of a premium strength brown ale.

Black Isle Organic Porter (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed by Black Isle Brewery of Ross-Shire, sample bought from Booths supermarket in Knutsford, £1.59
Completely black in the glass with the familiar tan head. The aroma is subtle and a little dry. The degree of carbonation on opening the bottle is modest, and it can be poured with relative ease. The first taste on the front of the tongue is predominantly dry and smoky. Full bodied, it is drinkable, without the excessive degree of carbonation found in some bottled beers, and you find yourself going back to the glass quickly. The aftertaste is more malty and rich
One of a small number of bottled beers to bear the Soil Association accreditation as organic, and bearing the seal of approval of the Vegetarian Society, the Porter advertises itself on the label as being Live Bottle Conditioned Beer, going on to say that the second fermentation in the bottle is similar to that of Champagne. It suggests itself as an accompaniment to oysters, crab or mature farmhouse cheddar. It certainly had me thinking of cheese.

Black Isle Organic Stout (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed by Black Isle Brewery of Ross-Shire, sample bought from Booths supermarket in Knutsford, £1.59
Pours easily into a pint glass without excessive head formation. The aroma is strikingly dry and smoky as you pour, and the beer is quite black with a modest tan head.
First taste prompted a wow! Noticeably dry with a smoky aftertaste, this is a classic. A side by side comparison with the same brewer's Porter would be interesting. Like the Porter, it bears the seal of the Soil Association as an organic product.

Black Isle Organic Blonde (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed by Black Isle Brewery of Ross-Shire, sample bought from Booths supermarket in Knutsford, £1.59
Easy to pour into an over-sized pint glass, with only a moderate amount of carbonation. A classic bitter shade of golden brown with just a touch of haze from the natural yeast. The aroma is subtle and ever so slightly hoppy. The first taste is clean and unexceptional, while the mouth feel is dominated by the carbonation. There is little aftertaste, and this beer may be to the taste of someone who does not like a powerful flavour to their beer.
The buyer should beware that different versions of this have been sighted, with different labels. One is clearly shown as "Real Ale in a Bottle" while the other seems to be a pasteurised substitute.

Freeminer Gold Miner (5.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in the Royal Forest of Dean specifically for the Co-op.
The label on the neck said "CAMRA supports real ale in a bottle. Please pour with care." So I did, and was rewarded with an adman's dream; a clear golden ale with a dense white head. Getting it all into a lined oversized pint glass (beloved of us bottled beer enthusiasts) was easy, and small clumps of well behaved sticky yeast could be seen on the bottom of the bottle in the thimbleful of beer left behind. The aroma was clean and inviting and the first taste was very encouraging; assertively bitter but with no hint of sourness, full-bodied but not cloying. For my preference, it was just a little to gassy. I feel this can dominate the experience and cloak the flavours, so a quick stir with a handy biro soon had that sorted, and the aftertaste had me back to the glass for more. The labels are hugely informative, even having a peel-off section with yet more information underneath! From these, we learn that a single variety of hop is used; First Gold, and that the barley is from the Cotswolds and Salisbury Plain, being malted at the oldest working floor maltings in Britain (if not the world?). It is encouraging to see the Co-op commissioning a beer like this. Shame our less imaginative chains do not take up the challenge. Asda, Morrisons, M&S, what are you doing about quality?

Hop Back Entire Stout (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Salisbury, Wiltshire and bought from Booths Supermarket in Knutsford, on special offer at 99 pence.
This poured easily, and only modest care was needed to fit it all into a pint glass, with a perfect sized pale cream head. The first taste was entirely (!) favourable: an intense, dry, roasted malt experience, with a delightful smoky aftertaste. The degree of carbonation gives it a slightly sharp mouthfeel, without being excessive.
The label proudly informs us that this is Vegan, as it has no isinglass finings. This has instantly become one of my favourite beers, and is superb value at this price. Beat a path to Booths now!

Iceni Fine Soft Day (4.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Norfolk, sample bought from Holly Tree Farm Shop.
Poured readily into a pint glass without troublesome frothing. Pours clear, with the yeast remaining stuck to the bottom of the bottle. Classic golden colour in the glass. Little aroma. The taste is clean, with the predominant taste being hop. The level of carbonation in the glass is low, enabling the beer to be drinkable. Satisfying, not cloying, with an aftertaste of hop.

Khean Caught Behind Stout (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Congleton, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm Shop, but available at selected outlets in Cheshire.
Opening the bottle produced a small volcano, suggesting a vigorous secondary fermentation, but after it was left to stand on the drainer for a couple of minutes, it could be poured carefully into a pint glass without much of a head. (Hint; to stop excessive head formation with lively beers, wet the glass all round inside with cold water first, then shake out the excess water. Tilt the glass so that the beer pours at a very slight angle onto the glass, only bringing the glass to the vertical as the glass fills to the brim.)
The beer is very black in the glass with a modest amount of slightly smoky aroma. The first taste is powerful, with dry, roasted and smoky notes. The mouthfeel is a little prickly, and I think the beer would benefit from being allowed to stand and breathe for a while. Continuing to drink, the impression is of a full-bodied and full-flavoured beer.
The label is attractive, showing a period cricket scene, in keeping with the theme of all the deliveries from this excellent addition to the brewing scene in Cheshire.

Khean Fine Leg (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Congleton, Cheshire. Available at selected outlets in Cheshire.
Opening the bottle produced some signs of liveliness, although I was able to pour it all into a pint glass without too much difficulty. The silty yeast could be seen clearly in the bottle as the pour was completed, so it was easy to leave it behind. I prefer my beers without too much carbonation, and I found that a quick thrashing with the swizzle stick improved matters greatly. Another example of the cricketing theme paying tribute to our national summer sport, Fine leg is a copper coloured beer with a powerful hop character. The bitterness fills the mouth; this is a lot of flavour for your money. Not one for the youngsters.

O'Hanlon's Organic Rye (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Devon, and bought from Booth's supermarket.
Not one for the beginner. Opening produced a minor volcano of foam, and despite your Editor's practised hand, some of the mobile fine yeast made its way into the glass. Nonetheless, it was fairly easy to fit it all into a pint glass, and this piece of theatre done, it was time to enjoy the beer. A rich medium brown in colour, and a little hazy, thanks to my clumsiness. It may be possible to pour it clear by stopping pouring sooner.
The first taste brought memories flooding back of trips to the continent. Both taste and aroma are subtly different from purely barley-based beers, and the use of a proportion of Rye in the mash makes for an interesting variation without being wacky. I found it moreish and refreshing. It is the only organic rye beer brewed in Britain and the brewer recommends its consumption alongside herby, oregano flavoured food.

Old Chimneys Leading Porter (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed at Diss in Norfolk sample bought from Holly Tree Farm Shop.
Opened with no frothing and poured quickly and easily in to the glass with virtually no head at all. Some yeast was seen firmly stuck to the bottom of the bottle. Very dark brown, almost black in the glass with a noticeable dark malt aroma. The taste is powerful and immediate, a classic porter. Just enough carbonation in the mouth to give the beer life and not so much to stop it being readily drinkable. The aftertaste is rich and smoky, and I wish I had bought more than one bottle. The bottle label is a gem, with a period photograph of the eponymous station employee washing a railway carriage. The restored railway line in question appears to benefit from sales. With beer as well executed as this, I am delighted to support it!

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (5.6% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Chico, California. Sample bought in Booths, Knutsford.
This comes in a dinky little 350ml bottle with a distinctive pale green label. Encouragingly for an American beer, it has a clear reference to yeast and bottle conditioning on the neck label.
Opened with no frothing and poured quickly and easily in to the glass with virtually no head at all. The yeast could be seen drifting toward the end of the pour, but keeping it in the bottle with the last teaspoonful was easy to do. An amber colour rather than the expected pale, there is a subtle, clean aroma of hop. The first taste is full-flavoured and well-balanced between malt and hop. The degree of carbonation is a little high for my taste, slowing down the drinking, bit this is easily remedied by waiting (or swishing it round with a stirrer!).
Those of us old enough to remember Brendan Dobbin's beer of the same name may be disappointed. Nothing could match up to that, but this is a good beer.

Storm Brewing Ale Force (4.2% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
An easy bottle to pour, with well-behaved yeast. An attractive subtle aroma from the Fuggles hops complementing a classic amber coloured ale. The first impression of the taste is a strong one, with the powerful flavour from the Fuggles predominating on the front of the tongue. This continues all the way down the glass; a big mouthful of flavour. This is not a beer for cissies. I found the mouthfeel to be slightly carbonated, indicating a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottle. I read from the label that a blend of pale, chocolate and crystal malts is used, but in my view this is about the colour; the beer is all about the hops. Very distinctive.

Storm Brewing Bosley Cloud (4.1% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
Pours easily, with the yeast highly visible in the bottom of the bottle, so that a timely halt to the pouring ensures a clear pint. The beer is pale, clear and golden, with only a slight hop aroma. The taste is clean, crisp and dry, with more hop than malt on the tongue. The label is informative, detailing the combination of wheat, lager and pale malts with Fuggles and American Cluster hops used to create this light golden ale. A beer which grows on you, I found that it was somewhat undistinguished to begin with, then I wanted more. Subtle.

Storm Brewing Desert Storm (4.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.

Opened with no fuss at all and poured clear and quickly into the glass. A small amount of yeast was visible, stuck to the bottom of the bottle. The aroma is understated, but the flavour most certainly is not! A massive attack of hop fills the back of the mouth, with Fuggles and Goldings blended in the mix. The ale is a medium brown in the glass, a result of the blend of pale, crystal and chocolate malts in the brewing process.

Storm Brewing Hurricane Hubert (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The bottle opened with no foaming, and pouring was straightforward, although the last half inch of beer had to be left in the bottle, as the yeast could be seen drifting up to the neck. Hurricane Hubert was brewed and named to celebrate the fact that Hugh Thompson joined the firm on a full time basis. The beer is a full-bodied but easy drinking amber ale, rather reminiscent of Fuller's 1845, if lower in gravity. Helpfully, the label tells us that the hops are Goldings, while the malt is a blend of pale, chocolate and crystal. My overall impression was of a well-balanced beer of character, and the aftertaste kept tempting me back to the glass. Excellent.

Storm Brewing Storm Damage (4.7% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The bottle opens with a soft pffft indicating life from the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Pouring into the glass is simple, producing the adman's dream; a pure white half inch collar of foam. Use of an oversize lined glass meant that this could be accommodated easily. The granular yeast can be seen readily so it can be left in the bottle, leaving a delightfully clear golden glassful. I could detect little in the way of aroma. The label tells us that the beer is brewed from a blend of pale and lager malts, flavoured with a combination of Fuggles and American Cluster hops. Unsurprisingly, this produces a clean tasting almost lager styled ale. At this strength, the beer is no lightweight, but it is pleasingly moreish.

Storm Brewing Windgather (4.5% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Macclesfield, Cheshire. Sample from Holly Tree Farm shop, but available from many independent outlets in the county.
The first impression is given by the bottle label; a simple black design with a distinctive thundercloud logo. Helpfully, the label also tells us that the hops used are Fuggles and Challenger. For those who like to know a little more about the beer we are buying, this is a laudable step. The name is clever; not only does it fit in with the "storm" theme but it refers rather neatly to a well-known local spot, the Windgather Rocks.
This is a bottled version of an ale which has won the Champion Beer of Cheshire Award. The bottle opens with no frothing and pours very easily into a pint glass, with a small head and no overflow. The beer pours clear, with no hint of cloudiness and the well-behaved yeast can be seen sticking to the bottom of the bottle. The beer is a classic tawny golden-brown, and gives a delicate aroma of hop. The Taste is clean initially with a hint of malt on the back of the tongue. There is a slight prickle in the mouth from the natural carbonation of the fermentation in the bottle, giving it just the right amount of life to invite you back to the glass quite quickly, without any of that unpleasant gassiness of processed beers. Overall, this is an excellent beer, and one which we can be proud is brewed by a couple of guys in Macclesfield. If only the big brewers had this kind of commitment.

Young's Champion Live Golden Beer (5.0% alcohol by volume0
Brewed at Wandsworth in London, sample bought from Tesco, for whom it was a Beer Challenge winner.
I can do no better than quote the tasting notes on the label; "a light golden refreshing beer, with a citrusy and full fruit flavour".
It opens and pours readily, without excessive foaming, and 500ml can be poured into an oversize pint glass with only the usual amount of care. There is no visible yeast sediment in the beer or remaining in the bottle, but the beer is bottle-conditioned, stating this proudly on the label. It certainly tastes fresh, with none of the stale cardboard chemical taste that is associated with pasteurised beers. Something of a Euro-friendly beer, it is brewed from barley grown in the east of England and flavoured using Styrian hops from Slovenia. I found it very easy to drink, with a clean, subtle fruity flavour which I think would find favour with newcomers to real beer. A very good introduction to the delights and subtleties of real ale in a bottle for those used to tinned substitute beer and mass-produced lagers.


Young's Special London Ale
(4.0% alcohol by volume)
Brewed in Wandsworth, London. Sample bought from Booths in Knutsford, but widely available.
A little lively, needing some care to get it all into a pint glass without creating a large head. It pours clear, with no yeast haze. A rich classic bronze in colour. The relative lack of aroma disguises the pleasant surprise of the first taste. Rich and full-bodied, this is a heavy hitter, strong in flavour as well as alcohol content. A gentle sparkle of carbonation on the tongue, from the continuing fermentation in the bottle, lightens up the powerful impact of the malt and hop. This was the 1999 winner of CAMRA's Champion Bottled Beer award, and a couple of mouthfuls is enough to tell you why. This is what beer used to be like. Magnificent.

 
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